Location: Lion Beer Hall, Ginza, Tokyo

Got beer?
 On paper and in person, Ginza is a neighborhood of high-class shops and world class dinners. It isn't hard to find some of the most expensive designer stores and Tokyo's most exclusive restaurants when you're strolling down Chuo Dori, the main shopping street. But, mixed in with and tucked behind the shops that Julia Robert's character in Pretty Woman would be kicked out of is a collection of stores and eateries for those with a more normal income. One of those locations is Lion Beer Hall. Just look for the Lion name out front!
 Hm. The plastic food looks good. Let's head inside!
 Hm. The actual food looks good, too! I had the fish and chips (the chips are hiding under the fish, I think). For the price the serving size wasn't too big, but you don't come here to eat.
 You come to a beer hall to drink, and they have a decent selection of beers. I saw a Yebisu black and tan on the menu - a good mix of dark and light beers that has an interesting taste without being too bitter from excessive hops. So I got it! Delicious.
 The inside is designed to look like a German beer hall.
As you can see, it has great ceilings and wall murals. The place was fairly busy but there wasn't a big line (I didn't have to wait) late on a nice Sunday afternoon. It's a lively place and for those looking for beer in Ginza, this would be my number one recommendation. I've only been once but I really enjoyed it! I've only been in Ginza once or twice, anyway.

Lion Beer Hall is located on the east side of Chuo Dori, on the corner. If you're coming from Ginza Station, it'll be on the left. It's open daily from 11:30 AM til 10:30 or 11 PM, they have an English menu, and they take credit cards! Plan to spend about 700 yen for a beer - dinner with a couple drinks will run you about 2000-2500 yen.

Location: Ginza's Metropolitan Police Museum, Tokyo

Do you like COPS?
Visitors to the Ginza shopping district can head down the street just a little further and find the Metropolitan Police Museum. It's located in this building - not hard to miss with the motorcycle out front!
Head inside and you can see some more vehicles. Have you ever wanted to sit in an old police chopper? Go right ahead!
Don't forget to take a step back and look at the whole thing (it's pretty small, so that won't take long).
There are other vehicles on display on the first floor, but there are more exhibits upstairs. It's mainly a collection of old things - historical uniforms and crime fighting equipment. It's not too exciting and kind of outdated, but for big fans of police work, or for a quick stop with little kids into police stuff, it's worth the admission charge (free, actually). I didn't really enjoy it - for a museum representing Japan's biggest city's police department, it really lacked substance and interactivity (okay, there was a safe driving simulator, but I was uninterested). I'd like to see more modern crime fighting tactics and a look at the judicial/prison system (as far as I know, Abashiri is the only place in Japan to learn about that).

The museum is located on the north end of Chuo Dori, the main shopping and tourist street in Ginza. Walk just under the expressway overpass and the museum will be on the right. It's open 10-6 Tuesday through Sunday (with variations on or around holidays of course) and has no English language displays, though you can get an English booklet.

It's all gone!

It took at least six months. Probably more, to be honest. But I took it a little at a time, trying not to overwhelm myself. A bit here, a bit there. Maybe three bits one night, but no more for the next week.

And finally, it's all gone. Not a single cup, bar, rope, or piece.

And by it, I mean candy.

You see, one of the things I often talk about missing is candy. Sure, there are candies and sweets here in Japan that are quite delicious, but when that homesickness moves back in, there's nothing like the sweet taste of Americana to bring about the cure.

So my friends and family bring me candy. I've had Reese's cups, York patties, Twix bars, peanut butter MnMs, Twizzlers, Milky Ways, Skittles... all that really unhealthy stuff that are really expensive or tough to find here.

And it's always too much. I swear I got enough candy to please a really nice neighborhood on Halloween.

Tonight - literally two minutes before I began to write this article - I finally finished off the last pieces. For those of you who were wondering, there was a yatsuhashi-flavored Kit Kat bar, a York peppermint patty, and a Reese's peanut butter cup. They were all quite good, and my candy space is now empty!

So while I appreciate all my family and friends have sent my way, I am now requesting that no more be sent. I can do without the junk food and tooth decay it brings. I can find chocolates here, and while York and Reese's and Skittles don't really exist in this land, I'll find something else for that craving if I really need it.

Likewise, I've found replacements or sources for a lot of stuff that is tough to find. Like deodorant - it's not cheap but I can get some from Amazon. And I've found good US-style toothpaste at a good price. And taco seasoning at the grocery store!

Granted, I eat plenty of Japanese stuff, too. Or stuff Japanese people eat. Italian is pretty popular here, and I've found that Pizza Hut serves up some pretty good pies (especially compared to American Pizza Hut stores).

Meanwhile, I realize that it's been almost two months since my last post here, and I want you all to know that things are going pretty well. I haven't done much sightseeing lately, partly due to a lack of motivation, partly due to a lack of new things to see in the area, and partly due to a lack of energy. The last several months have been very busy at work, so I've been getting home later, getting to work a little earlier sometimes, and just being too tired to do much.

But in a couple weeks, I'm off to Matsushima and Aizu-Wakamatsu, two beautiful travel destinations near Fukushima (but not too near Fukushima). I planned on going to Aizu early last year, but something came up and I had to abandon the plans. And in September, I'm going to Sapporo and the rest of Hokkaido. Both trips are very exciting and will result in the reaching of one of my goals here in Japan: to see a baseball game at every NPB home stadium!

As always, I hope to write again soon, and it seems like the past few days I've had more energy and time for writing. So who knows, maybe I'll get something up again tomorrow! (Just don't hold your breath...)

Reflections on Tokyo and My Future

Walking through Den Den Town in Osaka last month, I reflected on a blog post I had read about the area. The author said she preferred Den Den Town to Akihabara because prices were lower, selection was the same (or better in some cases, she claimed), and crowds were lighter.
True, crowds were lighter. I found some things I hadn't seen before in Akihabara, but then again I wasn't really looking. Prices - well, they ended up the same when push comes to shove. But there's something the author forgot. Akihabara is huge, and not just by size. Actually, the land area that Akihabara and Den Den Town take up are probably about the same. Akihabara stores are built up, though. Go looking up a flight of stairs - go to the second, fourth, or even seventh floor, and there's a new store with a different selection.
Near Den Den Town is Tsutenkaku, the best place to find kushikatsu (a delicious fried food). But these days, there are plenty of kushiage (as it's named elsewhere in Japan) restaurants in Akihabara too. Not to mention Chicago and New York style pizza, curry, and more. Osaka has some baseball card stores but so does Tokyo - and a bigger selection. Osaka doesn't have amusement parks like Tokyo does.

And that's when I realized that there is no place on earth like Tokyo.
There's so much I love about being in Japan, and living in the Tokyo area. Tokyo is the big city. The transportation is ultra-convenient - trains run everywhere for about 20 hours a day. Each town in Tokyo has its own purpose and flavor and depending on my whims I can head somewhere else to spend the day exploring. Am I in the mood for baseball card hunting? I can take off to Takadanobaba, or Ikebukuro, or Nakano, or Akihabara. A bit of geekness? Nakano, Ikebukuro, or Akihabara. My favorite restaurants can be found in Kanda, Shibuya, Ryogoku, and Ameyoko or Akihabara (plus elsewhere). There are amusement parks nearby, plenty of gardens to stroll through, and great shopping, and almost half of the country's baseball teams reside in the metro area.

Tokyo isn't perfect. It certainly costs a lot to live here. My favorite amusement park in Japan is located near Nagoya. A lot of the foods I love are really expensive. Most of my stuff is in America. I live in a small apartment and sleep on a futon on the floor. 
After living in Japan for a year and a half, most of my sightseeing locations have been crossed off the list. Traveling around Japan and experiencing the country was my main reason for coming, and by the end of the year I will be able to safely say I've done enough (though hardly everything). I've managed to also see Taiwan and Korea, and I'm debating a trip around Southeast Asia for the New Year holiday. But with "aggressive" traveling for the rest of the year, I could theoretically be "done" with Japan.

But I've made friends here. And I feel more comfortable here than I do in America. I'm always the odd one here due to my appearance, but I think I'm more like the Japanese way of life: keeping to yourself, respecting others' privacy, and generally thinking more about the big picture (hive mentality) than being selfish. I think I would be happy living in Japan. 
But again, I think about my future here - I can't stay at my present job forever. I need a bigger salary and a better place. I have to decide how to handle all my stuff back at home. As a lifelong collector, there's a lot of it. What about my travel plans moving forward? If I had a wife (and kids?) my priorities would certainly change, but I'd really like to live in Europe and/or Australia for a while.

And what about coming back to America? This is something I've talked about with my mother a couple times. I don't know how I feel about living in the States again. For all that I love about America, there's too much crap happening every day. Stuff I experienced when I lived there. Right now, I feel more at home here than I did back in America (family and friends excluded of course). 
I still haven't decided what to do next year. Teach in Australia or Europe? Stay in Japan but find a job at an international school or university? Stay where I am for one more year? Or do I want to go back to America? The great question.

Random Japan Photos

Random JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom Japan
Random JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom Japan
Random JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom Japan
Random JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom JapanRandom Japan
Random Japan, a set on Flickr.
It's been a while since I've posted, and I'm trying a different way of posting a group of photos, so I figure it's a perfect time to bring you a bunch of random photos I took around Japan. I don't know what this will look like until it posts, but I'll leave it up for you guys to enjoy (provided it works properly).

After viewing, I see that all the photo previews link to Flickr and there's a link to the set as well. There are 34 photos total, so clicking through to the set will let you see them all. What do you think of pictures being displayed this way? It seems good for showcasing an event or collection but not a series with commentary on each photo.

Until next time...

Piercings and Tattoos: America and Japan, and Thoughts

Body modification.
I could have given you one of those gross pictures of an ugly guy with so many holes in his face that you'd mistake him for a whiffle ball. Instead, I went with this one because - let's face it - this is probably the most attractive way to pierce your body a couple dozen times. Not that I necessarily condone it.
Everyone has reasons. Most women in America get their ears pierced by the time they're in high school. They can dangle shiny things to express how cute or beautiful they feel they are.

Then guys started doing it - first one ear, then two. I remember the whole "which ear means you're gay?" argument going on in school.

Then, people went elsewhere on the body. Tongues and navels were the first to be socially acceptable, but that was quickly followed by any other piece of skin the person holding the needle could get his or her hands on - eyebrows, lips, cheeks, private parts. The "corset" piercing above has no practical use of course. It's just for looks. And of course, once you have the hole, you make it bigger, especially at the earlobes.

I'm not sure what piercings signify anymore, if anything. Is it just a pain thing? Is my generation and the generations younger than me suffering from a lack of suffering? "Make us feel real pain, because we don't know what it's like." I am referring to the middle class, of course - there are plenty of people suffering in America and the rest of the world.

And they don't have tons of piercings.
And then there's tattoos. Like piercings, 20 years ago they were small and tasteful. Maybe a woman got a butterfly on her back, and guys might get barbed wire or something devoted to their mom (remember that Simpsons episode?):
But those could be covered by a normal shirt. People with visible tattoos were criminals and troublemakers - Harley riding, middle-aged, dirty single men in leather jackets who spent time in jail for armed robbery.

But like piercings, the taboo has become popular. The ink crept down the arm to form sleeves, across the shoulders and back and stomach and down the legs and up the neck on to the face. And again, not too long ago, the people with that much ink were rare until fairly recently. But having, and showing off, tattoos is cool now. See Megan Fox's back (she has more along her lower waist too, plus even more elsewhere I'm sure):
Rihanna has something like 20 tattoos including what I think is her birthdate (I'm not bothering to check) and that cool star thing going down her neck:
And here's the thing about tattoos. Piercings can be taken out and they'll eventually heal. But tattoos are expensive and painful to remove. A 2012 Harris Interactive poll found 21% of adult Americans with tattoos regretted getting one. While college (high school?) is fun and exciting and a time to try stupid stuff, there are plenty of dumb things that can be recorded on Facebook, Twitter, and all those other social networking sites to ruin a career.

And in your young-20s, when you're a bro holding a beer and wearing a backwards baseball cap, looking like a reject from an Abercrombie and Fitch catalog (see earlier photo), it seems awesome. And while yes, you can hold a full-time professional job with a covered-up tattoo - just remember that you'll have to wear a neck-tie and long sleeves in the hot days of summer to keep it hidden - eventually, you will want to do something where it affects you.

Do you want to come to Japan? It's pretty hot and humid in the summer. You'll want that short sleeve shirt. Oh, but a lot of places don't allow people with tattoos in their stores. That's especially true for family places (amusement parks, water parks) and relaxation places (no spas for you). Tattoos are associated with organized crime here. Even if you're a cute little white girl from Kansas, a rule's a rule, and Japanese people are really good about making and following rules and procedures.
Okay, you're never coming to Japan. So how about that job? Your sleeve comes up a little short when you shake hands, showing off a little bit of that tattoo. If you happen to meet a Japanese client, he might not say anything, but he'll probably take his business elsewhere. And even if it's an American, a tattoo has negative connotations in the US. While part of the younger generation may understand the trend, a mature, trustworthy professional would never have a tattoo.
If that tattoo is something trendy today, will it be cool in 10 years? What happened with all those girls getting Chinese characters tattooed on their arms? And what's going to come from all this silly nonsense writing? (I swear the words in tattoos on Americans come straight from Engrish t-shirts here in Japan - or vice versa).
Yes. That sounds exactly like Megan Fox's (and plenty of other people's) tattoos. And that stuff is all over Japan. Eventually, you'll get tired of it. And unlike an old shirt or a tacky couch, it's stuck on you forever.

You want kids? Or a wife? How do you explain that girl's name or picture on your body? (Flip the genders, ladies.) How do you teach your children the errors of your ways? I suppose you could say "Look how stupid Mommy was. Don't be stupid like Mommy."

Finally, I know it's tough. You're 20. That tattoo of an Angry Birds bird flying at North Korea sounds awesome. But before you put your name across your back in gangster-style font, remember this: you get old. And you look like this guy:
Sure, he's a vegan. And he probably got that tattoo recently. But you, too, will go bald, wear glasses, and be slightly overweight. And then you'll look really stupid. Like him.

Which brings me to America vs. Japan. There are a few Japanese "bros" here though they take on a slightly different style. There are guys that have mohawks or dress in goth clothes or look like Japanese Hollister models and most of them over the age of 20 can kick your ass at drinking. But pay attention. You don't see tattoos. You don't see extra piercings. Women here wear pantyhose, and some younger women wear styles that simulate a tattoo somewhere on the leg. But they aren't real. I can count the Japanese women I know with piercings other than the earlobes on one finger. It just isn't cool here.

And I'm glad for that. I recognize that most tattoo work is an art. And some tattooists are true artists. But I don't see the meaning for it. As for piercings, I still don't see it as anything other than a way to feel pain.

You can argue that you are trying to express yourself. But if you can't express that part of yourself through words, emotions, and actions, then it's just not important enough of an idea to express.
Can you not carry a picture of your child in your wallet? "Oh you have kids?" "Yes, this is my son, 10 years ago..." Or your girlfriend? Or wife?
You're funny? Tell a joke.
You're a geek? Get a t-shirt.

I found this comment while researching this post from someone who calls himself williamo:
[The author's] post reminds me of how I used to think when I was younger. I wasn't about following a crowd, but tattoos are something that I saw as a way of expression and I wanted to get one or two. Then I realized, the only reason why I was doing it is because I saw somebody else that did it.
Now let me say that a tattoo or piercing doesn't bother me. Just ask my ex. And I fully understand and agree that in today's American society (and for quite some time), tattoos and piercings do not signify criminal behavior and in fact have become mainstream in America.

But is this just a fashionable trend? Will it run its course and fade away, with the remnants left behind? (How) will societal views of tattoos and piercings in business situations change over the decades? Can a man with tattoo sleeves ever successfully run for president? What about a nose ring?  One fourth of the adult population in America is tattooed. How will the vast majority of American adults react to it?

Not all tattoos and "extra" piercings are visible, and if small enough and placed "properly" enough, are easy enough to hide except to share with those you really care about. Most people who have tattoos most likely have one or two small ones and can keep them hidden. And reading some of the opinions people have posted online, tattoos are widely acceptable if they are small, meaningful, and well-placed - visible or not.

In Japan, things are somewhat opposite. While younger people have been getting more tattoos than before, local governments and businesses have been getting tighter on "crime" - which includes distinguishing criminals as having tattoos. An interesting study states that about 75% of onsen (public baths) in Hokkaido let tattooed people use their facilities, though about 25% of them have visual (posters) or verbal bans on tattoos in effect. I couldn't find any actual data on what percentage of the population has tattoos. Tattoos were illegal in Japan until the end of World War II when American influences in Japan's government liberalized the laws, so now that a couple generations have passed some of the social stigma has passed, though certainly not all.

I think one thing to remember here is that body modification - especially that which is visible - has far-reaching effects that you can't possibly foresee. While it's your body to do with as you feel, when push comes to shove you must interact with society, and society's acceptance of your style can change as your place in society changes. In America, you can go to high school in shorts and a t-shirt. In Japan, you have to wear a uniform. As a businessman both in the States and Japan, you probably need to wear a suit and have a "conservative" hairstyle. I remember several of my "first" jobs (not too long ago, either) stating that I couldn't grow a beard. Would you go to a fine restaurant and order food from someone with a giant septum piercing? (If you have a septum piercing, I'm sure the answer is yes. What would the rest of society think?) And it's this view - the rest of society - that makes the difference.

In Japan, society frowns upon the existence of tattoos and extreme appearances. People are very polite and on the street they probably won't say anything to you. They also are intelligent and understand that other societies have other views. But there are plenty of stories out there of people with tiny, fashionable tattoos that someone gets a glimpse of, and the tattooed person gets kicked out of a water park or public bath. And I've discussed celebrities with students and they frequently mention with disgust about their tattoos.

I'm not sure why this turned out to be such an anti-tattoo post. I don't have any tattoos or piercings, obviously, but I hope it's clear that I don't have an issue with other people having them. I think I want to help people be aware of difficulties they face having tattoos in Japan, and hopefully a little realization that the same thing is still true in America as well. And now that I wrote all this, I completely forgot the inspiration for the post. Seriously. I checked my web history, and what I did before this had no relation to tattoos or piercings. Wow.

I'm interested in your thoughts, so please add a comment!