Showing posts with label culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label culture. Show all posts

Singapore: An Exciting Stroll through Little India

I have to admit that I'm a bit at a disadvantage when it comes to verifying the authenticity of ethnic neighborhoods. After living in Japan for a while, I can say that Japantown in San Francisco is pretty good. But I've never been to China or India, so visiting Chinatown and Little India in Singapore doesn't give me anything other than the hope to get a feel for each country's culture.

That said, it was obvious that Chinatown was geared toward tourists. Hong Kong is westernized China, but it did have some realness to it... and Chinatown was not quite real. I'm not saying it's bad. But it's touristy.
 But I quickly appreciated the sights, sounds, and smells I encountered when I traveled to Little India.
 Yes, you can buy Indian clothing. But this shop is there for Indians.
 There are food markets which had Indian shoppers browsing.
 There were a lot of those flower things. I believe I missed Deepavali, which is a Hindu festival, by a week.
 Little India is located a bit further from downtown Singapore, and it's full of Indians going about their daily lives.
 One of the best parts of visiting this neighborhood was peeking down the back alleys. It was more real. Trash, carts, people hanging out talking.
 Chander Road is the heart of the neighborhood. You'll find some restaurants and tourist attractions here or nearby.
 The main streets running around and through the neighborhood are full of shops selling pretty much everything. Some stores are for tourists, but most are practical. It's like the Indian version of Mission Street in San Francisco.
 The stores are great!
 Interesting sign partly for the subject matter, and partly for the inclusion of five languages.
 This is Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. Don't ask me how to pronounce that.
 It is a Hindu temple with elaborate decorative elements. It was closed in preparation for Deepavali but I could enjoy the outside.


 Above are some detail photos of the decoration.
 The historic buildings here are still in the same general style as you see around the rest of town.
 A little more realness that makes this neighborhood so enjoyable.


 If you're looking for some good Indian food, you have a lot of choices here. Plus, the stores have a lot of cheap goods - clothing, decorations, and rugs (see the photo below).
I started in the southwest corner of the neighborhood: Sungei Road (Bukit Timah Road) and Race Course Road. Serangoon Road runs north-south and is the commercial center of the area. Just wander and see what you find!

Singapore's Chinatown: Shopping, Touristy Shops, and Shopping

 Singapore is a truly multicultural city. This is reflected in its food and its neighborhoods. The markets have all sorts of grub from all over Asia, and the neighborhoods have their own touches (and restaurants) based on the origins of their peoples. Chinatown is no different. While the architecture reflects that of the rest of Singapore to keep the buildings cool, the area is packed with Chinese culture.
 And souvenir shops.
 The main area in Chinatown is unfortunately completely commercialized to cater to tourists. Maybe even more so than any other Chinatown I've visited.
 It's off the main path that you'll find more authentic shops, though I didn't really get there.
 The main shopping street is covered, meaning whatever the weather you can stroll and spend to your heart's content. This is actually the Food Street. But shops are here too.
 You will find Chinese souvenirs here, like lamps and costumes. There were lots of things I'd love to have come home with.
 Little India is nearby, but there are some shops that spill over to this area too - one of the coolest temples is nearby.
 And, shopping.
 Here's an authentic Chinese market. I doubt I could get any of this through customs, but then I don't know how to cook with any of this. Or is it medicine? I don't know, but stores like this - real Chinese shops - are what make a Chinatown real.
 Not McDonald's.
 Here's a mosque - Jamae Mosque. It, like Sri Mariamman Temple, is out of place in Chinatown. But Jamae Mosque has been in this place for about 200 years!
 As in other districts I admired the architecture and the colorful paint jobs.
 How awesome would it be to live in one of these buildings?
 Bee Cheng Hiang is one of several shops you'll find in Chinatown selling bak kwa, which is barbecued meat.
 Some shops let you watch the cooking occur. The meat is usually then packaged for later consumption, especially as souvenirs.
 Bak kwa is delicious - it's very much like a softer, tastier jerky. I'm guessing those 50% sales are pretty much permanent. Some shops are cheaper than others, though they're all pretty comparable. Shop around before buying. You can also taste-test at some shops, but I didn't really notice any difference in quality. The shop above, Bee Cheng Hiang, is where I got my bak kwa. They sell small individually packaged pieces of different flavors, so I was able to try all of them relatively inexpensively.

Will I eat more bak kwa? You bet!
 Oh, and souvenirs. Don't forget souvenirs.
One place I didn't get to go was the Chinatown Heritage Centre. If you look on the glass behind the blue-shirted man there's a sign on the window stating the place was closed. Apparently it's open again.

Okay, so there's a lot of shops here that cater to tourists. San Francisco and Yokohama Chinatowns are the same way, and you probably have to go a bit off the beaten path to find real Chinatown here. That doesn't mean that I didn't enjoy my trip. There are a couple individual stops in this neighborhood that I'll be posting about later: the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Sri Mariamman Temple.

Plus, I came across some shops in Singapore's Chinatown that had some really good prices on kitschy but authentic-feeling souvenirs. Good enough that I said "if I had a bigger place and a little more money I'd definitely waste the cash here getting these goodies."

The Visitors Centre is located at 2 Banda Street, and Chinatown Station will put you right in the heart of the neighborhood. There are various walking tours advertised on different websites which will lead you around to the main sights in the area, plus their choices of the best food. I decided to walk down to the Maxwell Food Centre, though, at the southern end of the neighborhood, for my lunch.

Not counting restaurant time, you should plan to spend a few hours walking the streets, browsing the shops, and visiting the temples, mosques, and museums. I feel like I am saying this for almost every Singapore post, but I'd like to go back again to Chinatown to eat and shop and explore a bit more.