Godaido: Temple on a Tiny Island

 Godaido is a small temple hall on a tiny island right next to the main land. It's in such a visible location that, well, you can't miss it. Apparently it was built in 807, though the current building is only about 400 years old. There isn't much to see there, unless you happen to come by when the statues inside are displayed to the public. That happens every 33 years, with the next unveiling to occur in 2039.

 It's right out on the water, but it didn't have any major damage from the earthquake or tsunami in 2011.

 Access is across two bridges. Here's the first bridge, which leads to a small islet.

 Then, across the second bridge, is the slightly larger islet that holds the temple hall.

 The hall has no color now, and from a tourism perspective there really isn't much to see here.

 Closer inspection of the details on the building itself reveals a bit of a treat, though; there are several animal carvings along the top.

There are 12 carvings in total, representing the twelve animals of the lunar candle.

 Godaido is located in the middle of Matsushima's waterfront, between Oshima and Fukuura Islands. The surrounding trees might make it a little difficult to see, but you won't miss it if you're walking along the water's edge.

 The temple grounds are open 8:30 to 17:00, and admission is free.

Oshima Island in Matsushima: Small Island, Big Fun

I'm not sure what your definition of fun is, but taking a walk on Oshima is a great way to spend an hour or two while visiting Matsushima.

 Matsushima is a small town near Sendai, plus the bay it sits on. The bay is dotted with islands covered in pine trees; the most popular sightseeing activity is to take a cruise around these islands and see the small caves and natural bridges that have formed due to erosion over the years.

 The closest island to the town of Matsushima is Oshima, a small slightly hilly rock on the south end of town.

 Access to the island is via a short bridge. The bridge was wiped out in the 2011 tsunami and wasn't repaired until 2013. Luckily, it was open by August and I was able to explore it with very little crowds.

 Crossing the bridge, the view between the mainland and Oshima shows a very peaceful beach.

 Once I crossed the bridge, I was greeted by a pair of statues carved into small caves. I suppose it's good luck to stick coins onto the statue.

 Looking back across the bridge, the view is just as nice.

 A small temple or shrine building is in the center of the island. Plus there are a couple other shrines.

 This shrine was on the southern end of the island.

 By the time I arrived, other visitors had been able to make some new offerings.

 The island isn't very big, and the southern end is fairly plain. There are small statues and other works scattered here and there.

 On the east side of the island, away from the town, there are a few locations that provide nice views of the bay. The heat and humidity gave the bay a hazy appearance.

 Flowers!

 Once I got around to the northern side of the island, I could see more of the small caves. They were full of statues and tablets.

 There was also this statue watching over them, perhaps protecting them from tsunamis. The island itself apparently didn't have any damage from the tsunami in 2011.

 This is the northern end of the island. The small marina pokes out on the left, and another small island with a temple is behind the pine tree. I'll post about that soon. Beyond that there's a cruise ship dock and a long bridge to a larger island - you'll see that island later as well.

 To get back to the bridge and Matsushima, you could walk through this tunnel. However, it was closed for some reason during my visit (I managed to photograph it in such a way that you can't see the caution tape). It seems to be safe enough, but they might have been cleaning it or performing inspections or something. So I had to walk over the small hill.

From the look of these rocks, the water would have filled the tunnel during the 2011 tsunami. To the left is the water, facing Matsushima.

Oshima is free, and is about 5-10 minutes away from Matsushima-Kaigan Station. It's a little tricky to find but there are some signs and if you try to stick to the roads closest to the shore you should find it soon enough. From the station, walk toward the water and MarinePla aquarium, then follow the small road to the right around the aquarium. TA little ways down you'll come to a wooden building (there's a large sign for the park management office at the street); turn left immediately after that (there's a large map of Oshima across the path from the building). You'll go down a street that turns into a path that leads right to the bridge.

There are three islands reached by footbridge from Matsushima: Oshima, the small island that is the home of Godaido, and Fukuura Island. This is the southernmost island. There are a few islands around Matsushima itself, but the real collection is further out, around Miyato Island. The cruise ships will come out here, but I think visiting with your own boat and exploring the random islands would be ideal. I've read that there are lots of beautiful caves to be found that the tour boats don't visit.

(Don't Just) Go for Gyoza: A Stop in Utsunomiya

Everywhere in Japan is known for something. Yesterday, I mentioned Sendai's "love" of beef tongue. Hokkaido has dairy, produce, and seafood. Kushikatsu in Osaka is delicious.

Utsunomiya, a small city north of Tokyo, is known for gyoza. For those who don't know, gyoza is the Japanese name for fried dumplings. They usually contain pork, cabbage, onion, and some other ingredients for flavor.

 Like chicken wings and pizza, it's pretty tough to mess up gyoza. Japan's version stands out because it contains garlic, and you can find it almost everywhere. Really. I think every place that sells food is required to carry gyoza, by law. It's that common.

 Utsunomiya's gyoza is supposed to be really good. I don't know about that, because one "standard" gyoza piece in Japan is just about the same as any other. But Utsunomiya has an outdoor and indoor gyoza "town" of sorts where you can get some of the "best" in Japan.

 I wouldn't make a trip to Utsunomiya just for the gyoza. But it's a stop on the bullet train and for those heading north it is a good place to stop for dinner or a day break. Utsunomiya's gyoza is available in a ton of varieties. It's sauteed, deep-fried, boiled, and steamed. And beyond the usual, you can find all kinds of unique stuffings. I seem to remember a garlic gyoza (don't plan on going on a date afterward) and various spicy versions.

Gyoza can be found all over Utsunomiya, of course. The large department stores and malls around the station have plenty of restaurants. I was taken to a place right outside the east exit of Utsunomiya Station, where a few restaurant buildings have been built along with several monuments and a park-like setting. This is essentially a gyoza hub, with plenty of options and beer for those looking to get their fill.

The place we went to had a plate of 12 gyoza pieces, with 12 different flavors. They were all good, and if I have the opportunity to stop on the way I'll do it again. But I wouldn't recommend going all the way to Utsunomiya just for fried pork dumplings.

Utsunomiya has a few sights around town, and a jazz scene of sorts. It's also a transfer point for JR riders to get to Nikko, so it can serve as a dinner stop on the way back to Tokyo. Note that tourists looking to go to Nikko and not using a JR Rail Pass should probably use the Tobu line from Asakusa. It's faster and cheaper and the Tobu Nikko station is closer to the sights. The bullet train to Utsunomiya takes under an hour from Tokyo Station; using local trains takes two hours. Utsunomiya's modest sights include a shrine, a cathedral, a park, and a reconstructed castle.

If you are traveling between Tokyo and Sendai or further, you should be able to leave the train in Utsunomiya for a while and catch a later train for the rest of your journey. There are some restrictions especially with reserved seats and it depends on the distance you're traveling; it is best to check with an English-speaking attendant to be sure, and for details on how to do this.

Sendai: It's A City In Tohoku

Japan, like the United States, is broken up into regions. First, the islands/chains: Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, Okinawa, and Shikoku. Then, Honshu, the largest of the islands, is split into smaller regions: Tohoku in the north, Kanto near and including Tokyo, Chubu around the middle, Kansai around Kyoto and Osaka, and Chugoku in the west including Hiroshima. These regions are then broken up into governmental prefectures and cities.

Tohoku is most known these days as the region that includes Fukushima and the nuclear power plant, and it is the area that was hardest hit by the earthquake and tsunami. But that notoriety aside, it's a largely rural area with skiing and some history. The region has some great sights, but they take time to reach and are fairly off the tourist-beaten path. There are two notable exceptions: Matsushima and the Aizu-Wakamatsu area. (Okay, there are more, but I've only visited those two so far.)

Sendai is a good base for Matsushima, a very short rail trip away. It's a small town-style large city, with an NPB team (the Golden Eagles) and a nice little nightlife area. Be warned, though, Sendai's nightlife isn't anything like Tokyo or the other big cities. Last summer was my first time in the region, and I was only able to stay in Sendai and the area for a couple days.

 There isn't much to see in Sendai. The streets are tree-lined and everything feels clean and welcoming, but the city was wiped out in the war. All that's really there for tourists are a handful of museums, temples, and a zoo. That said, the city has top-league teams in baseball, soccer, and basketball. If you do decide to spend a day in Sendai, apparently there's a free English guide service available. I don't know anything about it. Actually, I didn't do any real sightseeing in Sendai. I was here for a couple amusement parks in the region, a couple baseball games in town, and a day trip to Matsushima.

 I thought this stairwell was pretty interesting, though. Halfway up, there's an escalator. I guess people get tired climbing up the stairs here, and they were stopping on the landing. And that giant statue in the photo above was in front of an office building about 10 minutes from Sendai Station on foot; my hotel was down this way and I saw it a few times going to and from the station.

Speaking of hotels, Sendai does have a lot of offices, so there are plenty of business hotels. I didn't really find any budget options, though. I thought this totally 1960s air conditioning control in my room to be photo-worthy. I'm sure my hotel was at least that old, but it did look like it had been renovated recently enough and was pretty clean.

Sendai is known for its gyu-tan - beef tongue. It's grilled similar to yakitori (just like we grill meat on barbecue grills in America) and I'm sure it's seasoned. Unfortunately I couldn't bring myself to try it (time was a factor, too) when I was there, but maybe next time - and I'm sure there will be a next time. If even for just a weekend. It is pretty close to Tokyo if you take the bullet train, after all.

I'm not sure what else can be said for Sendai. There is a shopping mall and shopping street, department stores, and restaurants near the station. For a city that suffered a major earthquake a couple years before, it was in great shape, though. And it is a good starting point for a tour around Tohoku.

Another JWBL Game: Women's Baseball near Yokohama

Spring training is getting underway in the US and Japan, so now is a good time to talk about the last game I saw last year. It wasn't an NPB game, though - I headed to a not-too-small stadium in Kanagawa prefecture to see the Japanese Women's Baseball League play another double header. This was my second visit. You can read about my first trip here.

 Before the game, the teams lined up along the foul lines. The stands were never really full, but the photos are a little deceiving, because there is a small overhang behind the plate and several families and groups were sitting in the limited shade.

 Japan's baseball fields are really uninspired. But this one does have a nice grassy area down the foul lines. The JWBL ropes off most of the stadium to keep the crowds and any messes in a controlled area.

 It's a shame that the outfield wasn't open, because it looked very inviting. Spend the day watching baseball and enjoying a picnic! Then again, with such a low attendance, nobody would probably go out there.

 Here's a view of the seats behind the plate. Notice the cluster between the dugouts and behind the plate, the section of empty seats, and then the people sitting near the top.

 With two day games, I spent some of my time trying game shots without getting too in the way of the other spectators. First, a through-the-net shot from my chosen seat for the first game.

 I moved to a different location for the second game. This shot was almost exciting.

 I could have probably cropped this photo a bit. But the mound without a grass infield looks so lonely I left it in there.

 This photo looks a little grainy. I think I processed it a bit too much.

 Wide-angle action shot!

 I think some of the graininess came from the ISO the camera was using. I played around a bit with my camera to test different shutter speeds and ISOs.

 Baseball card worthy? I like this shot.

I'm disappointed that I didn't get to go to more than two events last year for the JWBL. They haven't published a schedule for 2014 yet, though the website (Japanese only) seems to indicate that there will be events on April 11th and 18th, but I can't tell where yet. But, then, those are Fridays so I won't be able to attend. They do several events over the year and I'm sure they'll announce a bigger schedule later on!