Tokyo SkyTree: Inside the Base

Don't expect any cool behind-the-scenes photos here. Actually, I only have two photos for this post.

Tokyo SkyTree is Japan's newest and most visible man-made landmark. You can see the thing from all over Tokyo and beyond with clear weather, and it's highly popular with foreign and domestic tourists alike. When something makes the "must-see" list in Japan, everybody goes. (See also: Disneyland, Mount Fuji, Kyoto, and Hiroshima's A-Bomb Dome.)

While the prior generation Tokyo Tower remains standing and still draws its own share of tourists, that development was more for TV purposes, with only a small shopping/dining area found beneath. SkyTree was heavily planned to generate as much revenue and tourist interest as possible regardless of the weather, so the 10-ish floors found at the base have more than just a couple restaurants and souvenir shops.

Like fresh fruit (in plastic packaging) vending machines.

Actually, the first three or so floors of the complex serve as a standard shopping mall. There are the usual clothing and accessories stores, the usual mall restaurants, and so on. There's a Disney Store and a store for Studio Ghibli. There do seem to be more shops selling souvenirs, though the fourth floor is designated specifically for souvenirs. Next to the McDonald's, we found a store for one of the major TV studios with all sorts of goods relating to many of the popular Japanese TV shows. 

There's also a popular aquarium, a planetarium, and the relocated (and refocused) Postal Museum Japan. Many restaurants are found on the sixth and seventh floors.

Granted, if you come to SkyTree, you're probably coming for the view. But you can also plan on the museum and aquarium, and if the weather isn't so good the food souvenir areas are worth a stroll to try a bunch of traditional Japanese snacks.

The Biggest: Setagaya Boro-ichi Flea Market

I've written before about used goods in Japan. They just aren't that common. However, the thrift shop movement has grown a bit here, and flea markets have been a part of Japanese culture for a long time. Known as the largest flea market in Japan, the Setagaya Boro flea market is held twice yearly, in mid-December and mid-January. This market dates back to the sixteenth century!

 People from all over Tokyo and Japan come to hunt for bargains. This place is packed!

 Where some flea markets are full of dealers, this one has at least a good selection of people just selling off household goods. As such, there is a lot of variety here.

 That doesn't mean you won't find dealers here. If you're looking for plants, look no further.

 Wooden bowls? There's a shop for that.

 Here's another person selling off some old wares. One booth was arranged by a school PTSA or something similar, and had tons of awesome things.

 This booth had toys. I saw some vintage items that were quite costly, while other people sold stuff at flea market prices.

 A few times, local schools marched their bands down the narrow street. An interesting concept in theory, it just made the crowds that much more crowded.

 If you need a used knife, this guy had you covered.

 Wooden bowls (kine) and pestles (usu) for making Japanese sweets (mochi).

 More wooden goods, with lots of traditional toys.

 I saw at least a dozen dealers set up selling used kimonos. Prices varied but were really inexpensive - definitely under $50 for 99% of the kimonos. Compare that to hundreds or thousands of dollars for a new one.

 One dealer had a lot of these wooden shinto altars for use in Japanese houses. Most households will have one of these (or similar) somewhere in their house.

 I saw some coats, but not much along the lines of clothing. That's a good thing - there are other flea markets packed with clothes. I enjoyed seeing all the old goods instead of clothing.

 Speaking of old goods...

 This "booth" had lots of traditional food. In the foreground is a bunch of nori, or dried seaweed.

 Uncut cards of some kind, but really overpriced.

 One great thing about large outdoor events is the collection of food stalls that accompany them. A couple had peeled boiled potatoes, which were then cut open and covered with butter and other toppings.

 Grilled meat is a common sight.

 I've seen a lot of chocolate covered bananas. Unfortunately, it seems that my body can't handle bananas anymore so I'll have to find another treat.

 Dango.

 Grilled fish of some kind.

 Yakisoba.

I probably could have bought more, but as always funds were limited. I did get quite a few things, though:

 This Tigers jersey was only about $3.

 This three-pack of curry was only $2.

 One person had a ton of Disney pins, and while I could have bought a dozen or more, I only picked out this one from one of my favorite Disney shorts.

 I wanted to find some geta (above) and zori in my size, but was unsuccessful. I did get this pair of geta for only $1.

 I'm always on the lookout for cool trading cards, and I picked up a ton of menko pretty cheap. Most of them are not baseball cards, but that's okay.

 I can't read them, but I did get a bunch of cool comics from a dealer selling them super-cheap.

 I believe I have almost the full set of this baseball-themed comic.

And this tea kettle thing finished off my purchases. As I said, I wanted more, but money doesn't grow on trees. Maybe next year?

The Setagaya Boro-ichi flea market takes place 9 AM to 9 PM on December 15-16 and January 15-16 each year. Access is best via Setagaya or Kamimachi Stations on the small Tokyu Setagaya line. Just follow the crowds south from the stations.

National Azabu Supermarket, Roppongi

My plans for my US trip earlier this month included a lot of shopping. With two suitcases plus two carry-on bags, I had a lot of space to carry snacks and cravings back. But I had heard a lot about National Azabu, a supermarket near Roppongi which carries lots of imported foods and ingredients.

 The store is quite large and convenient to Hiroo Station on the Hibiya line. On the right is a premium popcorn stand.

 The main entrance is around the corner - just left of the photo above. Obviously, there's a Baskin Robbins as well as a couple other food options.

 Inside, it's a supermarket, just like any other. There are plenty of organic options for those who sway that way.

 The spice section offers a lot of options I don't usually see in Japan, including a broad selection of non-American, non-Asian ethnic foods (Mexican, for example).

 The cheese selection is outstanding, too.

 Seriously, I don't recall seeing this many cheeses at any supermarket in the US.

 When it comes to snacks, you won't be able to get much of a craving satisfied. There are the basics, and I saw a lot of brands I didn't recognize. Are they specialty brands or non-US imports? I didn't see any Twix, Pop-Tarts, or Fritos.

 I want to stress that when it comes to cooking meals, you can find a good selection of staples to go along with those spices. This is an import store, though, and prices will be higher than the US.

One last shot to show the baking goods. I believe everything you need to make a pumpkin pie is here. I've heard of friends making cheesecakes, and I saw a good selection of fresh breads, imported beer and wine, and meat.

National Azabu is a good choice for those looking for ingredients and foods that aren't part of Japanese diets. But I still haven't found a reliable source of candy and snacks. Upstairs is a selection of household goods - toilet paper, cleaning supplies, etc, cookware, and English-language books.

The map above will help you get there - from Hiroo Station on the Hibiya subway line, take exit 1, turn left at the intersection, and follow the road to the market.

Crazy Kawaii: Kyary Pamyu Pamyuseum

Kawaii means "cute" in Japanese, and that one word embodies almost everything about popular culture. Fashion, accessories, mascots, style - it's all kawaii here. Kyary Pamyu Pamyu is a J-Pop star who got her start in the heart of kawaii, Harajuku, and has gone on to become quite successful. Her songs are catchy and fun, and the music videos are fun and relatively unique. But beyond that, Kyary's fashion style is essentially the Japanese equivalent of Lady Gaga - outrageous, cutting edge, and one of a kind.

 There are enough music videos, performances, and live appearances where Kyary has worn or included amazing fashion that an entire temporary exhibition was created. Originally displayed in 2013 in Roppongi, it returned this summer at Koshigaya Laketown mall, the largest mall in Japan. I can't find any details right now about any other locations, past or present.

 After paying your admission fee, you're given a plastic lollipop that can cause exhibits to light up or interact. And in you go!

 There are dozens of costumes on display, worn by Kyary and other performers on stage and in the music videos. The purple-top costume has a skirt made out of snack wrappers.

 Yes, photography was allowed, and encouraged. There was even a Twitter hashtag for people to share their photos.

 Most of the costumes are on stands that slowly spin around so you can see them at all angles.

 I mentioned interactive exhibits. The thing on the right is inside a box; you stick your face through the hole and your smartphone on a small stand and you can take a picture that makes it look like you are wearing the costume. There were a couple costumes like this, and were some of the "interactive" exhibits that required use of the lollipop.

 The dress on the right comes from Candy Candy, the first video I ever saw.How she ran in those heels I'll never know.

 This dress was just awesome.

 I haven't seen so much of Kyary Pamyu Pamyu's music videos to know where all the costumes come from. But that pink dress mannequin is a zombie!

 I believe these are stage costumes worn by her backup performers, though I couldn't be sure. If you watched that Candy video then you might recognize some from that as well.

Behind the backup costumes was a projected stream of music videos - I timed my photo just right to catch the Candy Candy video being shown, by chance.

The exhibit was certainly packed with pastel, and I think I got enough kawaii during my visit to last a good month or more. As I mentioned before, I don't know if the museum is headed for a new location, but it certainly was a fun way to spend an hour or so!