Hong Kong: Kowloon

Hong Kong Island, full of towering skyscrapers, is what people envision when you mention this city's name. That's where the money is, and that's where the British people lived. But those in the know are also familiar with Kowloon, the "Chinese" city across the water. This is where the airport was for so long. This is where the infamous Walled City once existed, with its almost mythical population density. And this is where progress has come slowly, if at all.

 Kowloon is also where the flavor and culture is. For gentrified suburbanites, it's a scary, dirty place. But for the adventurous, there's something awesome hiding around every corner and down every alley. But you don't have to hunt for history. Right next to the Star Ferry terminal is the old clock tower. This is where the old Hong Kong railway station was, and while the historic building itself was torn down, the tower remains as a landmark. Nearby are several museums.

 I avoided public transportation as much as possible, not because of fear or disgust, but because Kowloon's streets are lined with interesting shops and factories.

 Just peaking inside buildings as I went from destination to destination meant that sightseeing didn't have to wait til "are we there yet" - this is some metalworking/pipe shop.

 And another shop was full of mannequins waiting to move to other shops.

 The buildings here are high, but old and run down. Air conditioners poke out of windows, laundry hangs off poles, and everything feels gritty and dirty. Greenery is almost nonexistent if you're not in a public park.

 But three doors down is a bakery with really beautiful cakes on display. Or a window selling delicious snacks. Or a shop full of toys or suitcases or clothes for old ladies.

Some areas of Kowloon are better for exploring than others. And with only a few days, I wasn't able to visit them all. But there is more to come here - streetscapes, markets, and more.

Yokohama Chinatown: Lunch and a Stroll

 Earlier this summer, I spent the day in Yokohama walking through a couple neighborhoods. My morning started with a little shopping and an art gallery, from where I headed over to Chinatown.

 Yokohama Chinatown is the largest Chinatown in Japan, though these days most of the establishments cater to tourists. San Francisco's Chinatown has plenty of tourist shops and restaurants as well, but it still mainly functions as a Chinese neighborhood.

 There are a few Chinese temples in town, and plenty of side streets to explore.

 There are some authentic Chinese or Asian markets, with imported foods. But there are lots of restaurants catering to Japanese visitors.

 And lots of souvenir shops. Some shops have souvenirs like snacks, keychains, and kitschy trinkets, while others are more authentic.

 Those temples sure are beautiful...

 Authentic goods include clothing - note the stereotypical Chinese dresses in the left-hand photo - and imported liquor and beer. I bought a bottle of Chinese liquor or liqueur here, but I don't know anything about it. I might have to open it and do a taste test some time!

 You can't come to Chinatown in Yokohama and not eat. It just makes your visit pointless. If you have a sweet tooth, these sesame-covered balls filled with red bean paste and another sweet paste are pretty common.

 A few stalls were selling these fried snacks that I thought were really tasty.

 The most common food in Chinatown is the dumpling. There are dozens of locations from actual stores to small stalls selling these on the weekend. The cheapest full-size ones start at 350 yen, but these can be full light meals on their own.

There are dozens of varieties of fillings, though as you can see, most stores don't have English signage. The models on display will help you, and you can always ask the shop clerks, though they don't always have great English either. But...

 Most people plan on having a full sit-down meal at a Chinese restaurant. Food is tailored to the Japanese palate, so it isn't really spicy. Several stores have all-you-can-eat options, but the $8 buffet from America doesn't exist here. Maybe it does... but I haven't found it. I wouldn't mind heading to some cheap buffets for lunch some time!

Expect all-you-can-eat plans to run about $20. Most don't have buffets, instead cooking the food to order. This will slow you down unless you keep ordering food quickly. And these are good options for families and groups who will enjoy sharing the dishes, so you can get a wide variety of food.

I did an all-you-can-eat in Chinatown once, with friends. There are plenty of "usual" dishes, plus lots of dim-sum. Note that some restaurants have received really bad reviews due to service or food quality. Do your research before you go and have a few options (with good maps) in mind. I wish I could help you in this area...

You can read my previous post about Chinatown here, Most tourists to Yokohama will spend some time in Chinatown, and for most people it should be on your itinerary for lunch or dinner! As you might be able to tell from the photos, the district is quiet on the weekdays, and quite busy on weekends. Some stores and restaurants close on a weekday or have reduced hours during the week but there's still plenty to experience and less crowds to fight.

A Walking Tour of Hokkaido University's Beautiful Campus

Most people who come to Sapporo don't take much time to enjoy the architecture and scenery the town has to offer. They take a walk over to the clock tower and take their picture, and they might go up the TV tower, but for those with a couple hours to spare, the campus of Hokkaido University is perfect for a nice stroll.

 Of course, you can start at the clock tower, several minutes south of Sapporo Station. But on the north side of the station, to the west, is a nice old house, the Seikatei Historical Residence.

 In contrast to the modern buildings without yards surrounding it, the Seikatei Residence has old trees and a very rustic feel. The house is open for tours, but due to the typhoon earlier in the week, I only had time in the early morning to stop for a couple pictures of the outside. While the residence isn't associated with the university, its proximity to the campus and quiet grounds are a great primer for the rest of my adventure.

 Continuing north for several blocks brought me to the south-eastern entrance to Hokkaido University. During the school year, you'll see plenty of students walking around campus and people out to get some exercise.

 Moving from south to north, I followed a generally straight path with a few diversions. The first building I came to was the current Administration Building (formerly a classroom building). This was built in 1935, expanded in 1937, and has seen some cosmetic additions as recently as 1977.

 This bust sits to the left of the entrance.

 Further down the road, a large park area with lots of shade trees and a stream is a nice place for a picnic or studying.

 There's a water feature here, but unfortunately it and the stream both look too artificial and controlled.

 This is Dr. William S. Clark. He must be important.

 This is the Furukawa Memorial Hall. It's a wooden building built in 1909,

 It was originally a lecture hall; it is difficult to see now, but the doorway's decoration is designed to break up the symmetry. At this building, a turn right on the main road will send you heading north down the main street.

 This imposing structure without low windows is the former specimen room of the agricultural department. It was built in 1927 and is supposed to be fireproof.

 Continuing north, you come to the former main building of the science department, built in 1929.

 Now, it serves as the Hokkaido University Museum. From what I've seen, it should be a good museum, but time wasn't on my side. It's a very large building.

 Going down the road to the right of the museum entrance, you eventually get to a mini botanical garden of sorts. It is watched over by this man.

 There's a nice row of trees along a path to the left of the garden; the university has several collections of different trees along paths or streets - Hokkaido was originally an agricultural college. This isn't to be confused with the actual botanical garden, located a good ways away.

 There are some nice modern buildings. This is a faculty house. It's much nicer than the apartment this faculty member gets.

 Near the faculty house is the beautiful, more natural-looking Ono pond. It exists as a collection of various plants and fowl.

 Another modern building, this one appearing to have offices inside. It's completely elevated off the ground. How cool would it be to have a house like this?

 This building is an interesting mix of modern glass structures and a classical column facade.

 Directly north of the campus is a collection of barns known as the model dairy farm. I don't know anything about farm building types; there are some signs to tell you what you're looking at but the buildings weren't open to explore. Admission to the grounds are free and you can walk around the buildings.

Sapporo Seikatei is open from 9:00-16:00, and Hokkaido University's museum is open 9:30-16:30 (closed Mondays); both are free. The campus grounds are open longer and it seems that photography (respectful of others' privacy) is quite acceptable. There were a few other people exploring the model farm. It's probably just as easy to walk to Seikatei and/or the university from Sapporo Station, although the northern end of the university is served by the Nanboku subway line at Kita 18 Jo Station.

The university grounds have several numbered information signs about the history of many buildings on campus as well as some of the other features, such as the rows of trees. These signs are in Japanese and English, and I wouldn't be surprised if there's a tour map available from a visitor's center (check the campus map for information center locations; when I arrived it was still closed).