Hong Kong Island, full of towering skyscrapers, is what people envision when you mention this city's name. That's where the money is, and that's where the British people lived. But those in the know are also familiar with Kowloon, the "Chinese" city across the water. This is where the airport was for so long. This is where the infamous Walled City once existed, with its almost mythical population density. And this is where progress has come slowly, if at all.